About a decade ago, Croatia seemed to move almost overnight from the headlines to the travel pages, putting a welcome new spin on the phrase "Mediterranean hotspot." Indeed, the transformation happened so fast that even contrarians like us had to pause and run down the checklist – superb climate, pristine beaches, rarely travelled roads, fascinating history, architectural showplaces like UNESCO-protected Dubrovnik – to confirm that the region more than lives up to its rediscovered reputation. A few snapshots:

Imagine Pompeii as a 21st-century town and you have a sense of the port of Split. At its heart is the palace of Roman emperor Diocletian, who retired here in 305 A.D. (for a bit of shuffleboard with the other retired emperors). Making your way through the maze of streets via trendy cafés and historic sites, you eventually reach Split's most ultra-hip eatery – bizarrely, serving vegan cuisine.

Bring your best pig (or we'll get you one) to the annual truffle hunt at Buzet, in the wooded northern province of Istria. Then join past prizewinners as they feast on the world's largest truffle omelet. At nearby Vrh Inn in Vrh (try saying that three times), they do an amazing pasta stuffed with truffles, mushrooms and asparagus. Topped off with mistletoe brandy, it's the Istrian meal you've always dreamed about.

Of course you have to explore Brač, Miljet and the other spectacular islands off the Dalmatian Coast. We recommend a chartered yacht for doing it in style: personal freedom trumps the cost efficiency of scheduled ferry service. Each day your captain can drop you, your bikes and your guide at one end of an island, then meet you in some secluded cove for lunch.

On Korčula, for instance, you can follow peaceful roads through pristine forest, sun-baked vineyards and groves of olive and fig trees. Then there's Hvar, favoured by jetsetters as an off-the-radar St-Tropez, but also an idyllic world of undulating hills (and sunbathers) – luxuriantly green, despite being the sunniest spot in Croatia.

And you can always just take in the scenery from your yacht's sunny deck. Or island-hop by kayak, accompanied by dolphins, from Lopud to other gems of the Elaphiti group – stopping to swim, snorkel and picnic on hidden beaches.

Wherever we create your Croatian experience, count on an ideal blend of culture and nature in a place so confident of sunshine that boutique hotels actually lower their rates on cloudy days.